Bella Roma

– strikes, protests, & celebrations (and a prompt for you)

I looked forward to Rome, to Trastevere, to wandering, and of course, to eating. I hadn’t, however, anticipated the intense heat or the density of people-hood. I knew that Rome generally thronged with tourists, but this time it was bursting at its seams.

Since we’d arrived later in the day we asked our Airbnb hosts if there was a nice restaurant nearby. They suggested a pizzeria across the road even though, they said sotto voce, the owners were Sardinian. It was a crystal-glassed place where we were served the most delicious thin-crust gorgonzola pizza.

It didn’t look like much on the outside, but inside - white tablecloths, table service, elegance.

Colosseum in the morning. Haha. Right. I didn’t read the fine print on our tickets, that we were to bring photo ID with us. Funnily enough, I had Esana’s passport photo on my phone (she doesn’t have a cellphone) but couldn’t find a document with my photo id. So, we wandered around the colosseum until we could meet up with our group for the Roman Forum part of the tour which didn’t require photo ID. When I asked our guide why the need for such a thing he said that scalpers were buying up tickets and charging as much as 400 euros per entry. Our guide informed us that so little remains of the original exquisite marble because over the centuries various valuables were stolen and/or repurposed. Still, enough remains that the wonder of it all is intact.

We wandered into a church celebrating Rembrandt and this fellow:

Stunning depiction by Eugène Burnand of Peter and John running to Jesus’ tomb.

Lunch in the Jewish quarter was a little more peaceful although far from quiet. We walked across the bridge and up to one of my favourite spots, Fontanone dell'Acqua Paola overlooking Trastevere. Apparently a great spot for wedding photos - there were two weddings being celebrated that Friday. I think sauntering is the best pastime. Especially in districts where cars aren’t supposed to drive.

After purchasing a lovely pair of black glass bobble earrings at a Murano shop, we choose a restaurant that features ravioli. After we sit down and order wine we’re informed that there’s no ravioli tonight. We’re seated beside a grill where the chef is taking his time with the meat. Meat! It’s all about the Manzo-from countries all around the world. First, the cut is selected, cut, and weighed. Then the chef places it on a wooden slab to come to room temperature. But by bit he trims it. The wood fire blazes. It’s a sacred ritual. We’ve already ordered the waiter’s suggestion of baby goat ragu but our mouths are watering as we witness the creation of a masterpiece. Never mind, the ragu was fab!

We walked back along the Tiber—a long, sweet leisurely stroll of almost an hour—to our Airbnb which since it’s address was Trastevere, I’d assumed it would be in the old town. Turns out, Trastevere is a rather large Roman municipality.

Next day:

Although I’d visited the various big ticket places before, I hadn’t gone into the apartment beside the Spanish Steps where John Keats died.

Letters from John Keats… sigh

While outside people swarmed, I sat on a quiet terrace surrounded by jasmine, and overlooked the scene in cool peace. Besides a recreation of his small room (all his bedclothes and furniture were burned to prevent the spread of tuberculosis) the apartment featured a display of art prompted by an invitation to redesign and revisit the Spanish Steps. Some whimsical, some architectural, all fascinating.

We purchased tickets for an evening performance of the opera La Traviata at Chiesa all Saints. Part of the melee was on account of it being Italy’s jubilee year, a year Pope Francis declared to be one of renewed hope, bringing an estimated 35 million tourists to Rome in 2025. We met a few! We also bumped up against preparations for the June 2 2025 - Festa della Repubblica. The Italian Republic was born on 2 June 1946, when a universal suffrage referendum (which also marked the entry of women into Italian political life) was held to choose the institutional form to be given to the country. In short, Rome was a happening place, so we headed up to the Villa Borghese for a little cool respite. Trees, fountains, blessed shade, and lovely views.

We head down to catch the tram back to our Airbnb to shower and dress for the opera, BUT after about half an hour, the tram stops and everyone is ordered off. Transit workers are striking or there’s a Protest. (On May 30, 2025, there was a strike affecting Rome's public transport, specifically buses, metro, and trams. The strike was a four-hour walkout of ATAC workers, the city's public transit authority, according to Wanted in Rome. This industrial action was called by various trade unions.) We get back on the tram and return to the Villa Borghese because it’s relatively cool and quiet. Eventually we come back down to find a divine restaurant (are there any other kinds in Italy?) and dine on lamb and pasta (of course!) before returning to the church where we experience the orchestra, song, and drama of La Traviatta. Luckily, afterwards, we find we are able to return by tram to our digs.

Just an aside – BREAD! Why can’t we in Canada have bread like any of the buns, paninis, loaves we’ve had in Italy? For a single euro rather that eight dollars for an artisanal loaf in Canada.

The next morning we check out and flag a taxi to take us to the train station, but the driver pulls over to let us know that the way is blocked by protesters – the city is cut in half. It’s a hot world in every sense. He tells us we can walk, which isn’t very appealing since, as I mentioned it’s hot, or we can take the train. The train? Here’s where it gets kinda fun. The Trastevere train station is a hub for trams, busses, and, you guessed it-trains. I go up to the wicket and in response to my request for two tickets to the main station an extremely handsome man tells me it will cost two euros. The expression on my face makes him laugh. “Two euros for two tickets to Stazione Termine?” I ask in astonishment. He tells me if I’d like to pay more, that would be all right, but that is the fee. Within very short order… okay, full disclosure, the train is 15 minutes late… we are at the main station. Boom bang boom. For the equivalent of about three dollars, not the 30 or 40 euros a taxi would have cost.

Carabinieri near the station practising for the parade.

So we stash our luggage and explore the area. I buy some lovely Murano glass earrings (we both have only carry-ons so purchases need to be very small) and we enjoy a super delicious lunch in a cool place before making our way back to the station to wait for our train to Rimini.

side note: the market right at the station is phenomenal – anything you can dream of either ready-made or made-to-order. I bought spaghetti carbonara a la tartufo to enjoy on the long train ride.

Whew.

Next stops: Rimini, Molfetta, Monopoli…

If you’ve read this far, I think you deserve a prompt:

Write about a place you or your character have been or would like to go. Could be as wild as The Pleiades (aka The Seven Sisters and Messier 45 - an asterism of an open star cluster containing young B-type stars in the northwest of the constellation Taurus. At a distance of about 444 light-years, it is among the nearest star clusters to Earth and the nearest Messier object to Earth, being the most obvious star cluster to the naked eye in the night sky), or as near as a childhood home. I invite you to begin with the senses. What it smells like there, tastes like, feels like on the skin, and follow those details out into story.

I wish you happy writing!

Love, always.

Susan

oh, and one more thing… Online workshops are back starting Thursday, June 19 at 12:00 EDT. With many varied options throughout the summer. Check it out: Write Your Way In Calendar